tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-70815253171124143852023-11-15T09:02:38.745-05:00MuzzlepaintUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-66959042569771854642014-01-26T11:35:00.003-05:002014-01-26T11:39:30.757-05:00Sails of Glory: Rigged Le Berwick 1795
This is a 74 gun rigged Elizabeth class ship
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<a anchor="1" href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/74gun/rig.jpg" image="image" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/74gun/rig.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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<a anchor="1" href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/74gun/flags.jpg" image="image" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic//74gun/flags.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
<br>Please contact me if you have any painting needs!<br/>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-79079848591022806142013-12-18T10:58:00.001-05:002013-12-18T11:29:44.278-05:0015mm Late Byzantine Army
This is a Late Byzantine army based to Field of Glory standards
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Please contact me if you have any painting needs!<br>
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<a anchor="1" href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/15mmByz/g.jpg" image="image" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/15mmByz/g.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Please contact me if you have any painting needs!<br/>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-67462761144983985322013-11-02T15:57:00.003-04:002013-11-02T16:09:48.351-04:00Rejoice, Rejoice Cthulhu Dreams<p>Cthulhu from <a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1513061270/reaper-miniatures-bones-an-evolution-of-gaming-min" target="_blank">Reaper Bones Kickstarter</a></p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/bones/Cthulhu.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/bones/Cthulhu.jpg" width="300"/></a></div>
<p> The Elder God awakens</p>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-60304258150533897382013-07-10T22:00:00.000-04:002013-07-10T22:07:39.364-04:00Here Be Goblins<p> Goblins from the <a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1513061270/reaper-miniatures-bones-an-evolution-of-gaming-min" target="_blank">Reaper Bones Kickstarter</a></p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/bones/goblins.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/bones/goblins.jpg" width="300"/></a></div>
<p> I painted a few of the Bones up, they came out nice though the details are soft.</p>
<p> Great product for the price. </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-81395213703359115972013-03-12T22:33:00.000-04:002013-03-12T22:48:17.103-04:00Ozymandias Production Model<p> Ozymandias Resin Terrain Piece $24.99</p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/ozy/ozfront1.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/ozy/ozfront1.jpg" width="300"/></a></div>
<p> "My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!" </p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/ozy/ozface.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/ozy/ozface.jpg" width="300"/></a></div>
<p> It is a solid resin model measuring 6"x4" base and 8" tall at the top of the legs. </P>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/ozy/ozback1.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/ozy/ozback1.jpg" width="300"/></a></div>
<p> This model works well on both 15mm & 28mm scale game boards. </p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/ozy/ozplate.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/ozy/ozplate.jpg" width="400"/></a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-70353889806018713982013-02-12T00:07:00.000-05:002013-02-12T00:19:28.261-05:00Ozymandias WIP<p>
Here are a few shots of my Ozymandias Work In Progress. </p>
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<p> The 28mm viking is not part of the model, but present in the pic for a scale reference. There is some perspective distortion from angle I had to shoot the first photo with my phone. The legs are eight inches tall.</p>
<p> These are just some quick shots I took with my phone (hence the poor resolution). I live in the States and I was unlucky enough this winter to catch the flu not once (on Christmas), not twice (two weeks later), but THREE times (last week). This has put a serious crimp in my production output. I am mostly better now and will spend the rest of the winter in an isopropyl alcohol bath.</p>
<p> As you may be able to see in the photos, the head still needs some work but the model is about 80% finished. I hope to cast a mold this week (unless one of my arms falls off or I just turn to goo). </p>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-26548805682574495662013-01-13T23:13:00.001-05:002013-01-13T23:57:03.082-05:00Ozymandias
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Ozymandias will be my next sculpt/cast.</p>
<p>Congrats to Ochoin Ceithir <a href="http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=292004&page=1" target="_blank">from the TMP page. </a></p>
I expect at least 6-8 weeks to complete the cast. I will keep my blog updated with WIPs on the project.</p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/Quantum/ozymandias.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/Quantum/ozymandias.jpg" width="400"/></a></div>
<p> The above is only a visual description of Ozymandias for those who may not be familiar with the Shelley poem. My sculpt will only resemble this picture in that it will have "two vast and trunkless legs".</p>
<p style="color:#ddaa6e"><b>Ozymandias</b></p>
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I met a traveller from an antique land<br>Who said: "Two vast and trunkless legs of stone<br>Stand in the desert. Near them on the sand,<br>Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown<br>And wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command<br>Tell that its sculptor well those passions read<br>Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,<br>The hand that mocked them and the heart that fed.<br>And on the pedestal these words appear:<br>`My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings:<br>Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair!'<br>Nothing beside remains. Round the decay<br>Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare,<br>The lone and level sands stretch far away".
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<p> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ozymandias"_blank">Percy Bysshe Shelley</a>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-41427536876007157222013-01-08T16:37:00.000-05:002013-01-08T16:43:23.318-05:0015mm Roman Watch Tower
<p>This is my 15mm Roman Watch Tower kit I cast last year. It is based for a Base Camp for Field of Glory and stands 8" tall. The roof comes off and is a 15 part resin kit.</p>
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<p>It is still available for $45 USD plus shipping and handling (unpainted and figures not included).</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-49627023852352175842013-01-08T13:02:00.000-05:002013-01-08T13:02:03.548-05:00110 ASME of Resin Squashing Love<p>I just added another pressure pot to my growing horde for resin casting. </p>
<p> Binks is the Maserati of pressure pots and this one is the top of the line that I found used for a sweet price. It is stainless steel and looks to have been only slightly used. I very happy with this pot. It is rated for 110psi but I will never hit that ceiling, 80 psi is the highest you should cast at and 45-60 is normally fine. If you exceed 80 your molds normally start deforming and you end up with a warped and twisted cast.</p>
<p> So with this new pot, I probably won't blow myself up.</p>
<p> In celebration of this new denizen I want to sculpt up and cast a new rpg/wargame terrain piece.</p>
<p style="color:#ddaa6e">What is a must have terrain piece, that is not always readily available but you wish was in your collection?</p>
<p>I will select one suggestion, sculpt/cast the piece and send it to the winning choice.</p>
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<p>All Hail the Gods of Pressure Casting!</p>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-40265030911023183592012-12-02T13:29:00.001-05:002012-12-02T13:37:51.572-05:00Mounting Quantum Expanse models on Stealth Counters<p>It is very easy to turn your <a href="http://www.forgecraftgames.com/" target="_blank">Quantum Expanse </a> Stealth Counters into bases.</p>
<p> First drill a hole into the Stealth Counter (do it outside or wear a mask, the counter is resin and the dust is toxic). </p>
<p> Then take a drywall screw and slide a piece of electrical shrink wrap around the threads and mount it in the hole on the Stealth Counter. </p>
<p>Finally glue a <a href="http://www.amazingmagnets.com/" target="_blank">Rare Earth Magnet </a> to the model and one to the screw head. Take care to check the polarity of the magnets before you glue them in place. The magnets should snap together firmly. I find them absolutely strong enough to hold the largest Dreadnought in place.</p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/Quantum/base.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/Quantum/base.jpg" width="300"/></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-73992951581398779372012-12-02T13:06:00.000-05:002012-12-02T13:10:44.782-05:00Star Field Game Board<p>This is a new game board & terrain I designed and painted for various space battle rule systems. Over the next few days I will publish tutorials for building: the gas giant, moon, asteroids, and star field board.</p>
<p>This shot is a skirmish using the <a href="http://www.forgecraftgames.com/" target="_blank">Quantum Expanse </a>rules and models </p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/Quantum/teaser1.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/Quantum/teaser1.jpg" width="300"/></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-34160686570179800152012-11-26T15:33:00.000-05:002012-11-26T17:10:04.875-05:00Quantum Expanse paint test<p>Recently I received Quantum Expanse, the models are clean resin casts and have perfected a paint scheme. These models should would work well with other rule sets (the QE rule set is currently a basic beer & pretzels type).</p>
<p>Now before I paint the entire fleet I have run into a conundrum and would like to hear your feed back.</p>
If I paint all 48 ships the same pattern and try to play a two player game with just these ships, I am concerned the game area will look both confusing and visually bland.
<p>How have you all dealt with painting large fleets of ships that are modeled similar but used as mixed or separate fleets?
Any thoughts on painting patterns or basing before I commit my 48+ ships to the brush? </p>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-52017321286786455432012-11-04T11:29:00.001-05:002012-11-04T11:29:31.734-05:0015mm Hussites (Essex Miniatures)
This is a Hussite army based to Field of Glory standards
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Please contact me if you have any painting needs!<br>
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Please contact me if you have any painting needs!<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-59694900156869355222012-02-11T23:26:00.001-05:002012-02-13T13:14:10.358-05:00Orks for sale<p> The <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290670284675" TARGET="_blank"> eBay auction </a> is up. I only added on group of five orks from my mob of 25. I think I am going to add an eBay store to sell the rest of them and other GW stuff as I finish them.</p>
<p> I don't feel eBay is the best place to sell my work but this time of year is always slow; so maybe it will drum up some new business.</p>
<p>I am thinking about running a deal for the first 5 people who contact me and arrange to send me five 28mm miniatures / four 15mm stands of miniatures and I paint/assemble them for free (you pay shipping back and forth).</P>
<p>If you decide to use me for a future order, I'll give you free shipping for that order. And for every client you send my way who spends $100 USD or more, I'll paint another 5man /4stands for free (you pay shipping back and forth).</p>
<p>What do you all think of that?</P>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/Orks/ork1.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/Orks/ork1.jpg" width="500"/></a></div>
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<p> The <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290670284675" TARGET="_blank"> eBay auction </a> is up. </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-28774864937969643462012-02-11T22:50:00.000-05:002012-02-11T22:56:31.633-05:00UltraForge Tree Woman WIP Part 1<p>An unfortunate lumber jack is being investigating by the Lady of the Forest!</p>
<p>The lumber jack is an old Wargames Factory Viking I had lying around. I made a few sculpting mods to him to "help" bring out some of his details and convert him into a more panicked expression. These casts a fairly "soft" and most of the detail is lost in the process. I think WG has improved their molds since the vikings but I stopped buying from them after the Chinese take-over. </p>
<p> If your looking for plastic vikings go for the <a href="http://www.grippingbeast.com/shop.php?CatID=392" TARGET="_blank">Gripping Beast Plastic Vikings</a>, they are sharp casts.</p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/treewoman/tw1.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/treewoman/tw1.jpg" width="425"/></a></div>
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<p>Notice the shine on the lumber jack. This is due to the custom washes and glazes I mix with Future Wax. It leaves this gloss effect, which is cool if your going for the wet look but nasty looking here. Once the model is complete I'll hit it with a coat of Testor's Dullcoat, this will kill any nasty shine.</p>
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<p> I have begun adding branches to the model.</p>
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<p> The next step is to build the tree canopy and finish the highlights. </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-8036100704122572772012-01-05T11:33:00.000-05:002012-01-05T12:20:59.515-05:00Gripping Beast Skjaldborg!!<p>The Skjaldborg or shield-wall was commonly used tactic developed in Antiquity and implemented in many parts of Northern Europe, such as England and Scandinavia well into the Renaissance. The shield-wall did not require any great skill, and was essentially a shoving match with shields & weapons. This allowed poorly trained Fyrd (militia composed of farmers and other lower-class folk) to compete effectively with Huscarls, Thegns, and Hirdmen who were seasoned warriors that carried heavier weapons and consistently wore armor.</p>
<p>Below is a fearsome Skjaldborg of <a href="http://www.grippingbeast.com/shop.php?CatID=392" TARGET="_blank">Gripping Beast Plastic Vikings</a>. I feel these are the superior plastic vikings currently available. The casts are sharp with well defined features. </p>
<p>I totally dig them.</p>
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<p>Now being a sneaky bastard, I often base plastics with <a href="http://www.amazingmagnets.com/?gclid=CLy1zp2uua0CFUio4AodNAKRGg" TARGET="_blank">neodymium magnets </a> on <a href="http://wargameaccessories.com/" TARGET="_blank">metal bases </a>. This allows flexibility for not only using a variety of basing conventions, but also allows one to slightly adjust miniatures when building a shield wall or positioning them in large base to base formations.</p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/vikings/6.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/vikings/6.jpg" width="200"/></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-81563195013317138182012-01-04T15:02:00.000-05:002012-01-04T23:08:45.570-05:00Sonni Criid<p>The Holidays were crazy on my end. I hope to load up the blog with pics of several projects I recently completed. </p>
<p> I centered the light effects around the skull and some minor glow from the sword on this Malifaux miniature. I think the real trick to lighting effects is not to overdo them but achieve bright colors that fade into darker colors without fading to black. </p>
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<a href="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/corin/4.jpg" image anchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.muzzlepaint.com/pic/corin/4.jpg" width="200"/></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-22441451368469836382011-12-20T12:06:00.001-05:002011-12-20T12:06:05.176-05:00Holiday RushI am painting and building like a madman. I should have some pic updates in a couple days.
<p>I am finishing up a Doll House for my daughters and have both dragons near complete along with some Malifaux models, a Roman Cohort, and of course more Orks. I may try to crank out an oil painting if time permits. I was going to build a Jedi Temple complex for the Star Wars RPG to give as a present but that will need to wait until January.</p>
<p>If you would like a commission <a href="mailto:sales@muzzlepaint.com">contact me</a> soon, January is filling up fast and I have one slot left.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-66252736566791930962011-12-09T00:44:00.001-05:002011-12-09T00:46:15.090-05:00UltraForge Dragon ProgressesHere is an update on the UltraForge Dragon.
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The armor is coming along and the flesh is starting to pop.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-72906947802358293852011-12-08T13:15:00.001-05:002011-12-08T13:42:46.410-05:00Dragons blocked with primary colors<p>The dragons have been blocked out with their primary colors by airbrush. </p>
<p> UltraForge Dragon</p>
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<p>Games Workshop dragon sans rider.</p>
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<p>From this point on it will be a matter of brush work as I highlight the various details. </p>
<p> I am going to create a tutorial once the holidays have passed, that will go into greater depth on how I worked through each stage. For now I am just going to update the blog with basic pics as I advance toward completing the dragons.</p>
<p> I am crazy busy with Christmas commissions and need to concentrate on producing art, as opposed to commenting on it. </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-1004589218458642552011-12-06T01:51:00.001-05:002011-12-06T20:15:08.117-05:00Astorath the Grim<p> I am finished with Astorath the Grim. </p>
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<p>I may also gloss his mask, as it is supposed to be some type of porcelain-plastisteel.</p> <p> Overall I am happy with him.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-72803952598525889172011-12-06T01:26:00.001-05:002011-12-06T20:15:22.466-05:00Dragon Pen<p>Busy, Busy. I'll continue my tutorial on resin in a couple days. I'm now working on two Dragons, and tomorrow a Tree Woman is arriving (shhhh don't tell my wife). </p>
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<p>The new dragon is from Games Workshop. As a model it is decent but in my opinion it does not hold up to the UltraForge model. I have primed both models but I have not pre-shaded the models, so details are a little hard to see.</p>
<p> I really like the idea of dragon mounted Vikings, there is nothing better than beards forked in the wind. </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-42673626460626389942011-12-03T23:13:00.001-05:002011-12-04T22:38:27.011-05:00Yaaaaa!!! There be Dragons!<p> I assembled the dragon tonight with some pics. I'll post a proper commentary on the assembly process soon. I used liquid resin epoxy that sets in five minutes, but it needs 24 hours to cure before I can prime the dragon. </p>
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<p> That's one bad ass Viking!</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-85701521887203720212011-12-02T22:49:00.001-05:002011-12-04T10:58:00.907-05:00WIP UltraForge Dragon Part 1: Prep<p> I am building an <a href="http://www.ultraforgeminiatures.com/?page_id=64" TARGET="_blank">Ultra Forge Dragon</a> for a December Client. I figured I'd create a WIP for it, as it is an awesome sculpt and looks to be a fun resin project. Prepping resin is a bit different than prepping plastic, but once you get the hang of it you can build gorgeous models. </p>
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<p>This is the actual resin kit that I will be working with. It has 15 pieces and is suppose to come with magnets for the wings but my kit was missing them. This was not too big of a deal, as I have dozens of neodymium magnets in several sizes but it was advertised as part of the kit and this one was missing them. </p>
<p> Excluding missing parts or major flaws, you should expect your resin kit to arrive with minor flaws and flashing. Resin replicates intricate details from a master model, but it will also carry over even the slightest casting deviation into the final product. Air bubbles tend to be the primary issue confronted when casting in resin. Most professionals attempt to avoid air bubbles by degassing their resin to 29 in HG (inches Mercury) after mixing it, then cure their resin at 60psi or greater. Yet try as one might those evil little bubbles almost always seem to find their way into the production model. </p>
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<p> This picture illustrates three of the most common issues encountered when working with resin casts.</p>
<p>The air bubble is located under the neck where the body joins to the head. It is a simple fix with <a href="http://www.polymericsystems.com/epoxies-adhesives/epoxy-putty-tapes/kneadatite-blue-yellow.htm" TARGET="_blank">Greenstuff</a>, a two part epoxy that once shaped, cured, and painted is difficult to detect. It should be noted this is the only 'major' flaw I found on this model. A testament to the craftsmanship that went into designing, sculpting and casting this model. I often feel like its the 'resin lottery' when I inspect a new model. It can be a real PIA when there is a serious flaw in the model. One in which the whole build can be delayed by weeks while you send and receive corrected parts from the manufacture (it particularly sucks if this company is in Nottingham, England).</p>
<p>The second issue often present in resin models is joint cavities filled with resin. This joint connects an arm to the main body. This model is so large I actually took my power drill and a 3/16 bit to drill it out. Normally you would use a pin vice and at best a 1/16 bit, but this is a Dragon and it needs a monster bit (well monster for model building). </p>
<p>Flashing is the third issue normally encountered in resin modeling. Flash is not unique to resin and every model builder knows to clean up mold lines prior to assembling a model. This excess resin or mold lines on a model result from the casting process. I scrape and sand the model until I am aesthetically satisfied by the look of the model parts. The one important aspect of removing resin flash is remembering its toxicity.</p>
<p> Resin is dangerous if inhaled!</p>
<p> Wear a dust mask and if at all possible sand and scrape your model outdoors. If you clean it indoors the dust will settle on surfaces, and return to the air every time you disturb the surface. It is not that big of deal so don't get paranoid but you normally only get one pair of lungs, so you may want to keep them as healthy as you can. </p>
<p> The last prep issue normally encountered with resin modeling is warping. Resin is heat sensitive and if the temp is high enough it will bend and warp out of shape. This UltraForge Dragon shows no sign of warping. If it did or I wanted to mod part of it, I would soak it in hot water (150F/65C), remove it (with gloves on my hands), bend it into place, and then submerge it in cold water. The resin will now hold the new shape.
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<p> Once the flash is removed and all minor flaws have been corrected it is time to remove the 'mold release' from the model. A release chemical is applied to the mold so that the cured model 'releases' simply from it. As the resin cures in the mold the 'mold release' is also passed onto the surface of the model. This needs to be removed before gluing or painting the model. </p>
<p> MOLD RELEASE MUST BE REMOVED FROM THE MODEL!</p>
<p> You can skip everything else in the model prep, but you must remove the 'mold release'. If it is left on the model, the paint eventually will chip off the model or the glue may fail over time. I find undiluted <a href="http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_products_all_purpose.php" TARGET="_blank">Simple Green</a> and an old tooth brush is the best technique to remove the 'mold release'. I normally soak the model parts (fully submerged in the undiluted Simple Green)for four hours. Then I scrub the model, taking care to avoid using the brush on delicate parts of the model. Finally I rinse it under warm water, remember if the rinse water is too hot you could warp the model. Once it is free of mold release I let it air dry fully before I assemble or prime it.</p>
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<p> Notice the above picture of the Dragon head. If I ran my brush along those delicate teeth (well delicate in this world, fearsome in the game world), I would probably damage them. Soaking the head for 4 hours in undiluted Simple Green with a five minute warm water rinse, will suffice for delicate aspects, such as the teeth, on this model . </p>
<p>Once the model is dry test to confirm the 'mold release' is gone by rubbing a CLEAN finger on the model. Mold release will feel slick, a properly prepped resin model will no longer feel slick but slightly tacky to the touch.</p>
<p>That's it, that's my process for prepping the model for assembly and priming. Next time I will cover assembly of the dragon: pinning, gluing, and priming.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7081525317112414385.post-6706031045122254552011-12-02T13:21:00.001-05:002011-12-03T01:39:59.578-05:00Figuring out my Nikon 3100<p>My old Cannon G9 died, due to the <a href="http://about.flowingcolor.com/canon-g9-wont-power-on-time-bomb/" TARGET="_blank">Chinese assembly plant failing to use Loctite</a> on the internal screws. One of the screws worked loose over the last few years and dropped onto the main board, frying the camera. Normally it only fries the DC board; but not mine, it fried the whole damn camera. </p>
<P> I was fairly pissed as I had expected the G9 to last me at least 5 years, if not longer. As it is now, it lasted 3 years. That's fairly short for a $450 major name brand camera.
<p>Long story short I have a new Nikon 3100, that I am finally figuring out. </p>
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<p>Its amazing how much better a model looks when one figures out how to set the proper exposure and Field of Depth.</p>
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<p>Both shots are from my new camera, the newer shot has a more appropriate F-stop and shutter speed. If you look close at the new shot you will notice that the loin cloth and arms are now completely in focus. The new black background also helps focus the eye on the model by creating better contrast.
<p>I was spoiled by the automatic Field of Depth finder in my old G9 camera. Yet my new camera seems to grant even greater FOD with the manual controls.</p>
<p> The new pic is set at F25/ 1sec, while the older shot was set at F9/ 1/8sec. The lighting remained the same.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0